Monday, March 23, 2009

32 Oz Melton Pea Coat

Before I get into my review of this pea coat I feel a little background is useful and I found just that on the Schott web page:

“The US Navy Pea Coat was adopted during the early 20th Century, from Britain’s Royal Navy Reefer Jacket. The Royal Navies first regulations for uniforms for other ranks were issued in 1857, a century after the regulations for officers and this garment was originally used by Midshipmen ( Reefers ). These crewmen had to climb the rigging and furl and unfurl, or ‘reef’, the sails of the sailing ships of the era. The jacket was short, to allow ease of movement through the rigging. It had a double-breasted front, which displaced the buttons to each side. This helped reduce the chance of them getting caught on ropes, as the wearer maneuvered the sails. The pockets were often close to vertical, and over the flanks, rather than horizontal and at wrist level. It was made of a very heavy wool, in dark Navy blue, with a nap on the face side.
The success of the style is proved by its singularly universal appearance throughout the Navies of Europe. This may account for the US Navies nomenclature as an Anglicization of the Dutch ‘Pijekkat, being a jacket made of ‘Pij’ (a coarse wool) cloth. Conversely, it may be from the shortening of the Belgium Navies term ‘Pilot’s Jacket’ to P. Jacket, then being misspelled / adapted to Pea Coat. The term ‘Pea Jacket’ is reputed to first appear in the Oxford English Dictionary between 1717 and 1723. ‘Pea Coat’ does not appear for another century.”

Schott is a manufacturer of outerwear that has been around since 1913. One item that they make in different styles in the pea coat. The style I’ve been trying out is the Classic 32 oz. Melton Wool Naval Pea Coat (740). This pea coat has all the great features of the traditional issued pea coat and is excellent in both quality and function.

Obviously you’re probably not going mountain climbing with this coat with today’s technology out there, but, I’ve been wearing this coat on a regular basis in NY throughout this winter and it’s performed well. When I was young I remember my mother looking high and low for a Naval Pea Coat. I never knew why she wanted one so bad and it seemed as though it wouldn’t be too warm in the NY winters. This year I’ve found out why she loved that coat. The temperature here this winter has gotten quite cold (well below freezing) and this coat kept me warm. It blocks out the wind and has the great insulation properties of wool without the itch wool can tend to give. One great thing about wool is that it’s got natural water resistance (not water-proof, but it’ll shed a light rain), but even when wet wool will maintain it’s insulating properties. By flipping the collar up I was able to keep the cold away from my neck and lower face area.

This coat is very comfortable. You order this coat by chest size, which allows the proper fit as opposed to small, medium, large, etc, etc. Not only does this give you a more custom fit, but it also keeps with the military way of sizing dress items. This coat is roomy but not baggy. This also sticks with it’s background of use by the Reefers. One thing that I found nice was that even though the sleeves were a little short I was able to roll the sleeves up toward the inside and they stayed that way. I folded them up about one inch and since I folded them to the inside you couldn’t even tell they’re folded (as you can see in the pictures). This coat also uses a quilted 100% nylon liner to get the wool away from the skin and provide additional comfort, though the wool was not irritating to me. If the thick wool isn’t enough there’s a layer of 100% polyester fiberfill insulation as well.

This coat is great because it has the insulating properties and can be worn in a casual environment but it just as easily worn in a formal environment, where a ski jacket might be out of place.

This pea coat features hand warmer pockets which are perfect in size and placement and keeps with the naval tradition by keeping the Naval style anchor buttons. The length on me comes to about mid thigh and is enough to prevent drafts coming up from the bottom.

Overall I’ve been very impressed by this coat. Traditional and simple in design, yet a design that’s been proven throughout the years.

Colors Available: Navy, Charcoal, Light Navy, Black

75% reprocessed wool
20% nylon
5% wool/nylon blend

100% nylon

Fiberfill Insulation:
100% polyester

Distributor: AFMO - $199.90 with free shipping


Gun Slinger said...

Nice review,

I had one of those back in the Seventies. Wish I still did!

Shoot Straight,
Reviewing the Reviews

Anonymous said...

I used to have an official Navy issues coat but it got ruined and now I am looking for another one. I do have a questions however...many of the coats that are 32oz wool, are not 100% wool but rather a blend, and that coats I come across which are 100% wool are 28oz. From what I have read, the heavier wool is warmest, so why then can't I find a 32oz., 100% pea coat? Any ideas?

Jake said...

I'm not sure why most don't make the 32 oz in 100% wool. Most likely because of itching problems. A lot of people itch with wool, but this coat puts a liner in it to solve this problem. The outer layer of this is 100% wool however. When it says that it's 75% wool in the description I believe this means that 75% of the coat is wool meaning there are other materials, like the thread, the liner, and the extra insulation between them. The outer layer is wool though!

Anonymous said...

real ones have 6 visible buttons with the collar down. not 8. real ones do not have such a high standing collar, but rather, they lay flat. sterlingwear produces a coat that is the closest i have ever seen to my grandfathers wwII coat.

Anonymous said...

^ Post WWII coats have 6 buttons showing. WWII coats have 8 buttons showing with 10 buttons in total. Sterlingwear is the current contractor for navy pea coats. I'm guessing this Schott one is based on the old WWII design.

Anonymous said...

If I was 5'9" and 175lbs with 41" measured around my chest, would a size 42 be the right fit ?

Jake said...

I believe so

Anonymous said...

The winter here where I live is not the brutal, and I don't want to buy this coat and only use it twice a year. how warm is this schott peacoat? In between what temperatures would it be ideal?

Anonymous said...

where i live the winter is not that brutal. I really like this coat, but I don't want to buy it and only use it twice a year. What are the ideal temperatures for wearing this coat? cold enough to use it without being an overkill, but no too cold you need something else.

Jake said...

It's pretty good in a wide range of can use it buttoned all the way up with collar up in really cold or just casually. If you're going skiing or hiking I think a more appropriate coat would work better, but for every day wear this can be used in a wide range of "cold" temps

Dreadtz said...

Hi! I hace a question about your coat : What size are you( height and sleeve length, and chest measurement) and what was the size of your coat ?
You said the sleeves were a little too short, but they don't seem to be on the photos, especially if you folded them.

Anonymous said...

which color are you wearimg ? Dark navy or black ?

Jake said...